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What is Pond Muck?
Have you ever swum in a pond that smells bad, and when you get out you have black goo on your feet and legs? If your pond does not have aeration, chances are Muck has been accumulating on your pond bed since its inception. But what exactly is Muck? Muck’s physical appearance is often a blackish-brown slimy substance that will often time smell of sulfur or other pungent odors. Organic material of all kinds, such as grass clippings, droppings, dead organisms, and other forms of life will fall to the bottom and begin its transformation into this nasty smelling goo. Due to the anaerobic (no oxygen) nature of unaerated ponds, this organic material will slowly accumulate, all while leaching potent nutrients into the water column; nutrients that allow algae and other nuisance vegetation to thrive. In this way, Muck is a food source to all sorts of unwanted plants. Therefore over the years; ponds will get worse each season in regard to algae and other unwanted vegetation. Muck can also be a breeding ground for leeches, as they love to grow in it. This is just another reason on a long list of reasons to want to get rid of Muck if you have it or avoid getting it if you do not. If there is nothing in place that can negate the large quantities of nutrients that accumulate in the pond, you can be certain it will only get worse with time. And because the pond is anaerobic, the processes that could break down this muck cannot occur, as they are aerobic (require oxygen). Due to the anaerobicity, this oxygen free zone along the bottom of the pond will produce harmful bacteria and hydrogen sulfide. As a result, other living organisms in the pond can be harmed from the production of these byproducts. So, what can you do to proactively assure that you avoid Muck accumulation? Methods to Avoid Muck Accumulation: Bottom Diffused Aeration – With a bottom diffused aeration system, you ensure that your water column is completely destratified. That means that there is little change in temperature and oxygen concentration the deeper you go. This type of system will assure that oxygen is present where the Muck has settled, allowing beneficial aerobic bacteria in the water column to breakdown the Muck, in turn, lowering nutrient concentration in the water. Often, people will start to regain depth in their ponds just from this change, depending on how many years’ worth of Muck a pond has accumulated. Additionally, if you are applying an herbicide or algaecide when needed, you are simply masking the symptoms of an already sick pond, and even making it worse. If the pond does not have aeration, those dead plants and algae will simply sink to the bottom and begin leaching nutrients, repeating the cycle. Beneficial Microbes – The aerobic bacteria that breaks down the Muck can be supplemented in high concentrations to ensure breakdown of matter on the bottom of the pond. With oxygen present, these bacteria will deplete the nutrient load and mitigate the foul odor often produced by stagnant ponds. At Outdoor Water Solutions, we sell a dry proprietary Barley Straw Blend of 5 strains of Microbes specifically designed for ponds and lakes. The bacteria come in water soluble packs that are easy to apply and require no preparation. Due to its dry nature, we can fit 20-50x live bacteria in the package when compared to a liquid product. This high concentration ensures that the bacteria can cultivate and thrive in the water column long enough to do its job. Muck Pellets – Muck Pellets are similar in function to the Beneficial Microbes, but vary in application. These pellets are formulated to sink to the bottom and eat the Muck in a localized area, quickly and effectively, whereas the Beneficial Microbes cultivate in the water column, spanning across the entire pond. The benefit of Muck Pellets is that if there is a Dock, loading zone, swimming area, etc. in a pond that has been overtaken by Muck, Muck Pellets is the product to go with. Due to the trace mineral base and enzymes that are present, the bacteria are catalyzed to degrade Muck and nutrients from their surroundings. The bacteria that are in the pellets are high volume waste consumers, meaning they decompose large quantities of Muck at a fast rate. This one tool can be utilized with other solutions mentioned to give you the best chance to reduce the amount of organic material you have sitting on the bottom of your pond. Outdoor Water Solutions is one of the leading companies in the pond industry and sells a full line of pond microbes including the Lake & Pond Bacteria and the Lake & Pond Muck Pellets. We also have super concentrated blue dye and multiple aeration options including electric, solar and wind powered. Please email or call us at 1-866-471-1614 and we can provide you with a detailed quote.
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What Exactly is Algae?
Algae can be a problem for a lot of pond owners. It can even grow on the bottom in late winter, early spring when you think it should be dormant. It can be controlled with algaecides but the best option is to prevent it with a combination of pond dyes, aeration and supplemental microbes. Types of Algae: Algae often floats on the top of your pond and appears to be in mats. Usually, many forms of algae grow on the bottom then rise to the surface over time. Before you treat it, it’s important to understand the different forms of algae and how they live in your pond’s ecosystem. There are three common types of algae found in North American ponds: Filamentous Algae. Most commonly called pond moss, moss, pond scum or string algae. This algae starts growing on the bottom then floats to the surface where it forms a mat. This can easily cover a large part of your pond and makes it extremely difficult to fish or swim in. Planktonic Algae. These are floating microscopic plants that are usually floating on the surface and can be green, blue-green and or brown in color. Forms of planktonic algae, especially the blue-green kind can be toxic to both people and animals if not controlled. Most planktonic algae is beneficial and are an important part of the aquatic ecosystem. They also produce oxygen and food for the animals that live in your pond. Chara. This form of algae grows on the bottom and looks very similar to a plant called Naiad. It doesn’t have any flowers or true leaves. You can tell it’s chara by its strong musky odor when crushed. Why do you have Algae? Algae is a life form and is very dependent on both sunlight and nutrients to grow. If your pond has runoff coming into it that carries Nitrogen or Phosphorous from farm fields, golf courses, yards and anywhere else that might be carrying fertilizer, then you’re probably going to have algae. It also likes shallow water and abundant sunlight. Older ponds that have black organic matter on the bottom are also prone to algae as that organic matter releases nutrients as it decomposes. How do you Treat Pond Algae? Liquid Algaecides. Floating mats of algae and planktonic algae are usually treated with a liquid product, like Cutrine Plus, which is a liquid copper based product that is sprayed over top of the algae to provide control. Granular Algaecides. Bottom growing algae like some filamentous algae and chara can be tough to control unless you apply a granular product directly to the algae. Cutrine®-Plus granular is a good option for this as the granules will sink and come into contact with the algae on the bottom. Can you be Proactive and Prevent Algae? The answer is yes. The best way to prevent an algae problem or to at least minimize it is to be proactive. By using a combination of pond dye to shade the water, all natural microbes and sub-surface aeration, you can work on the problem vs. just putting a band aid on it. By changing your pond to aerobic vs. anaerobic, you start to break down excess nutrients which feed the algae. Adding microbes and dye further helps the situation. Outdoor Water Solutions is one of the leading companies in the pond industry and sells a full line of pond microbes including the Lake & Pond Bacteria and the Lake & Pond Muck Pellets. We also have super concentrated blue dye and multiple aeration options including electric, solar and wind powered. Please email or call us at 1-866-471-1614 and we can provide you with a detailed quote.
How do you Improve a Pond the Natural Way?
Improving Pond Water Quality the Natural Way Together with a team of seasoned biologists and water quality experts, OWS has created a simple, easy to use Pond Care System. The three products included in the Pond Pack work together to help to prevent problems before they start! Today, many pond owners rely on the use of algaecides and herbicides to keep their pond looking nice. While these products work well, they are primarily curative in nature. That means they fix the problem after it is already a problem – like algae and weeds. They do not fix the underlying issue which is a buildup of nutrients and a lack of aeration and water circulation. These “excess” nutrients and lack of oxygen is really what causes too much algae and too many weeds. Other potential problems with traditional solutions: Pond Turnover – without proper aeration, most ponds will physically turn over once or twice a year. This is due to the water stratifying into different layers with the colder, oxygen depleted water on the bottom. As the seasons change, a pond can invert or turn over, which brings the colder, low oxygen water to the surface where fish will often die due to lack of oxygen. Pond Algae – with a lack of oxygen and a build up of nutrients, pond algae can thrive in a pond. Algaecides are effective in killing the algae that’s there, but do not prevent it from coming back as they do not fix the real problem. Pond Muck – with a lack of oxygen, beneficial bacteria, and enzymes on the bottom of a pond, the decomposition process of leaves, fish waste, grass clippings, etc. cannot occur. The bottom of the pond soon starts to build up with a black layer of muck that cannot decompose and instead continues to accumulate and release excess nutrients into the water further feeding algae and other weed problems. Pond care is really evolving as the industry itself becomes more environmentally conscious and pond owners start to consider alternatives to using potentially harmful chemicals to treat their pond water. Just like any problem that needs to be solved, the best way to approach it is to look at the underlying issues or symptoms of the problem. An excess of nutrients and a lack of aeration and water circulation are usually the underlying problems that cause algae and excess vegetation in a pond. As a more environmentally sound alternative, pond care can be achieved by using a combination of biological products and aeration. The Pond Pack from Outdoor Water Solutions combines three different natural products that work together to help prevent future problems. To further improve your pond environment, aeration provided by an Outdoor Water Solutions solar, wind or electric aerator can make a big difference by adding beneficial oxygen to the water. This begins breaking down excess nutrients, both in the water and on the bottom of the pond. Combining additional oxygen in your pond with a mixture of beneficial bacteria, water clarifiers, and natural pond dye gives your pond the care it needs to stay healthy and clean. Pond Care Packs Provide: An Easy and Safe to Use Pond Cleaning System No FDA or EPA Approval Required No Need to take Courses and go through a Licensing Application All Natural Solution to Help Keep Your Pond Clean and Healthy For Use in Ponds, Lakes, Fisheries and Ornamental Bodies of Water Each Pond Pack contains three different products which work together to help people clean up their ponds and maintain them in good condition 365 days a year. These three natural products are proven and tested to help tie up nutrients in the water body and provide the simplest and most cost effective solution available on the market. Recommended Solution Each Pond Pack box will treat ¼ acre pond with an average depth of 4' - 6 feet. For a ½ acre pond 4-6 ft deep, you would use two boxes for season long performance. Each Pond Pack Box contains three all natural products designed to help keep your pond clean and healthy all season long. Lake & Pond Water Clarifier is a non-toxic granular product commonly used in the water treatment industry to improve water clarity. It also reduces the amount of phosphorous in the water and helps clean up murky pond water. Lake & Pond Bacteria is a non-toxic natural blend of beneficial microbes in a barley straw base. Lake & Pond Bacteria helps break down organic matter, diminishes nutrient overload, helps reduce odor, and creates a clean, clear pond ecosystem. Lake & Pond Dye is a proprietary blend of environmentally friendly, non-toxic, water-soluble dyes formulated to reduce sunlight penetration and impart a natural blue color when applied to ponds, lakes and fountains. For ponds that have a lot of algae present, you may need to treat with a copper based product. For ponds larger than ¼ acre, you may need to purchase multiple Pond Packs to get season long performance. Aeration systems are not required, but extremely helpful in increasing the performance of these products. NOTE: The use of these products can improve water quality in ponds and small lakes, especially when combined with aeration. For the most environmentally sound system, combine these products with an Outdoor Water Solutions aeration system.
3 Ways to get your Pond or Lake Ready For Spring
Check out these 3 Ways to Get Your Pond or Lake Ready for Spring! Is your pond or lake ready for spring? Now that the ice is gone, and spring is working its way across the country, it’s time to think about treating your pond. All ponds age and as they age, they eventually accumulate black muck on the bottom which then leads to excessive plant vegetation and algae issues. Why, because the bottom of most ponds is anaerobic and things do not break down and decompose very easily in an anaerobic environment. As the muck layer grows, it releases phosphorous and other nutrients which then feed green plants and algae or pond “moss”. So how do you prevent these things from happening? Here are 3 ways to get your pond or lake ready for spring. First, consider adding bottom diffused aeration. This turns the bottom aerobic which means much more rapid decomposition due to the more active aerobic bacteria. Why do you think the wastewater treatment plants churn and move their water, to add oxygen and aerobic bacteria, the same way oxygen and aerobic bacteria keep an aquarium clean. Aeration options include wid energy, electricity or solar power. All are effective, and all work. Secondly, add some additional microbes and aerobic bacteria. A concentrated blend of dry bacteria can speed up nutrient and organic matter decomposition. This can be in pellet form to work on the bottom muck extensively or in dry powder form to circulate throughout the water column. Thirdly, use a colorant to help filter the sunlight. We have a wide range of dye’s that are all super concentrates and can help significantly, especially in ponds with shallow edges where algae is prone to grow. Lastly, you can selectively use an algaecide or herbicide to help with problem areas. Outdoor Water Solutions carries a wide range of these products to help control excessive algae and weeds in problem ponds. Follow these 3 tips and your pond or lake will be ready for the warmer weather and looking good!
Summer Pond and Lake Maintenance Ideas
Summer has arrived and the heat is on. This heat allows us to enjoy many outdoor activities, but also can cause many problems in ponds and lakes with algae blooms, stratification, and fish kills. Read our summer pond and lake maintenance ideas. Outdoor Water Solutions has a full line of products to properly maintain all ponds and lakes so they can be enjoyed safely this summer. Bottom diffused aeration brings dissolved oxygen levels up, allows waters to mix by evening out temperature, and also accelerates the decomposition of muck and nutrient build up; all critical components for maintaining a healthy pond or lake especially for the summer months. OWS provides a wide range of aeration systems for small ponds to large lakes. AerMaster electric aerators, available in 110v or 220v, are very efficient and powerful, capable of producing up to 14.4 CFM at 5psi on Pro 11 and 12 models for applications where electricity is close by. These systems can be used in many different environments and work excellent with OWS self-weighted diffuser plates available with single, dual, and quad 9” rubber membrane diffusers. AerMaster DD solar aerators are an excellent alternative for projects where electricity is inconvenient or too costly. These systems produce 2.8 CFM on a single compressor system and 5.6 CFM on a dual compressor system. Installation is very simple and quick, coming with everything to install, all at a highly competitive price point. Wind is also an effective and efficient energy source for aeration through an OWS windmill. OWS leads the industry by producing 4.5 CFM with a 5 year compressor warranty. Deluxe models are available which include all accessories to properly aerate two air stations. Fountains are a great aesthetic for any water feature while producing some surface aeration and circulation. OWS fountains are new for 2018 and have all stainless-steel chassis, pump, motor, and intake screens. These fountains are very versatile, available in both solar (3/4hp, 1 ½hp, 3hp) and electric (3/4hp, 1 ½ hp, 3hp, 5hp), and have interchangeable nozzles. 36-Watt LED’s can be added to the electric models for an even more dramatic display. Outdoor Water Solutions can provide detailed quotes and maps for all of these systems. Projects can be sent to National Sales Manager, Joe Forman who can be reached at joe@outdoorwatersolutions.com and 479-756-1614. We look forward to providing our systems and customer service for your projects this summer.
Winterizing Your Pond or Lake
Well, it’s that time of year when fall is soon upon us, then the short cold days of winter. If you own or manage a pond or lake, then you’re probably not thinking too much about “winterizing” it. Nature will take just take its course until spring arrives. However there are a few things that you can do proactively if you want to get a head start on next year. 1. Keep aeration in place thru the winter months. Bottom diffused pond aeration helps to keep the water circulating eliminating fall turnover and fish kills. It can also help to prevent fish from dying under the ice if you live in areas where you have complete freeze over. Lastly aeration will give you a head start on algae control next spring by circulating oxygen rich water thru the whole pond which will increase the amount of beneficial aerobic bacteria present.If you don’t already have aeration in place, now would be a great time to install it, before the ground freezes up. There’s still ample time to build a windmill for energy efficient wind aeration or to set up an electric aerator with bottom diffused aeration. If you don’t already have aeration in place, now would be a great time to install it, before the ground freezes up. There’s still ample time to build a windmill for energy efficient wind aeration or to set up an electric aerator with bottom diffused aeration. 2. Use a pond dye or colorant – even over the winter months. Pond with Colorant and Aeration Most algae can grow on the bottom of a pond year around. Come February or March, it can really take off. Using a pond dye adds a nice color but also filters the sunlight, keeping it off of the bottom where most algae live and grow. Aquashade is a good choice as well as any of the other pond dye’s we carry. 3. Continue using beneficial aerobic bacteria until the water temperature drops to 50 degrees. In some parts of the country, you might use supplemental bacteria year around. In the Northern climates, it might be from April through November. The biggest benefit of adding supplemental bacteria is in breaking down the organic matter on the bottom and in reducing the amount of nutrients available to feed bacteria and aquatic vegetation. They are much more effective than anaerobic bacteria and really go to work if you have supplemental aeration. Pond with Aeration Keeping the Ice Open 4. Fall is the best time of the year to kill aquatic weeds like cattails. Why? Because they are actively taking sugars to the roots to store up energy for the winter. When you treat them in the fall, they take the herbicide directly to the roots giving you better control. Treating after a frost is fine as long as you have > 50% of the leaf surface that is still green. Shoreklear Plus is the product to use as it has an aquatic registration, so is safe to use around fish and ponds. SaveSave SaveSave
Fall Pond Transition Checklist: Leaves, Sludge & Ice
Quick answer Before sustained freezing weather arrives, remove as much fresh debris as practical, check water temperature before choosing a biological treatment, inspect aeration and electrical equipment, and decide whether a dock or other structure needs a localized open-water plan. The goal is not to keep an entire pond ice-free. It is to reduce the organic load, prevent equipment surprises, and protect the areas where ice creates the most risk. Fall pond care is less about buying one winter product and more about reducing three risks before cold weather: new organic load, equipment surprises, and ice around structures. Start before peak leaf fall, then finish freeze preparation before your local forecast shows sustained overnight freezing. In this guide Why fall problems arrive together The five-step checklist When Ice Away fits Safety Final walk-through FAQ Why fall pond problems tend to arrive together Fall changes several parts of a pond at once. Leaves, grass clippings, and dying shoreline plants add new organic material. Water temperatures fall, biological activity changes, and access to docks and equipment becomes harder. Then an early freeze can create ice around pilings, boats, cables, and other shoreline structures before winter preparation is finished. That chain matters because decomposing organic material uses dissolved oxygen. Later, persistent ice and snow can reduce light and slow the normal exchange between water and air. Shallow, nutrient-rich ponds with heavy vegetation or organic buildup are generally more vulnerable to winter oxygen problems than deeper, cleaner ponds. A fall plan should therefore address debris, muck, equipment, and ice risk as connected issues instead of treating them as four unrelated jobs. What do you see right now? Observation Likely risk First response Possible OWS path Fresh leaves collecting New organic load Skim, rake, net, and repeat during peak leaf fall Leaf-removal tools; physical cleanout Soft bottom muck or odor Accumulated organic material Measure area and water temperature; combine removal and label-directed treatment Fall & Winter Blend when conditions fit Damaged airline or unreliable power Loss of circulation when access is difficult Inspect and repair before freeze-up Aeration parts or expert sizing help Dock, pilings, boat, or lift exposed to ice Localized structural and access risk Inspect hardware and plan localized water movement Ice Away when site and conditions fit 1. Remove fresh leaves and debris before they sink The easiest leaf to manage is the one that never reaches the bottom. Skim or rake floating material from accessible shoreline and dock areas, remove windrows of leaves after storms, and trim dead marginal vegetation where it can be reached safely. For small ponds, a seasonal leaf net can reduce the amount of material entering the water. For farm ponds and larger lakes, concentrate on coves, shorelines, drains, and dock zones where debris collects. Do not expect one cleanout to last all fall. A few short passes during peak leaf drop are usually more practical than waiting until the material is waterlogged and settled. Physical removal also keeps a biological treatment from being asked to handle a volume of debris that should have been removed mechanically. Clear leaves from the water surface, dock edges, spillways, and equipment intakes. Remove loose plant material without disturbing stable shoreline vegetation unnecessarily. Keep grass clippings, manure, fertilizer, and eroding soil from washing into the pond. If bottom muck is already deep, document where it is concentrated before choosing a treatment plan. Read: Should I Keep Leaves Out of My Pond? 2. Match sludge treatment to the water temperature Beneficial bacteria can support the breakdown of organic material, but the formula, water temperature, dose, and application interval matter. Standard warm-water products may slow down as the pond cools. Use the current product label or product detail page rather than carrying a summer routine into fall by habit. For OWS Fall & Winter Blend, the current product guidance lists a 38°F to 60°F water-temperature range and an application every two weeks. The published use rate is two packets per quarter acre, four per half acre, six per three-quarter acre, eight per acre, or sixteen per two acres. The initial application may be doubled for heavy organic buildup. Always confirm the current label and the size of the area being treated before application. Biological treatment is not a substitute for removing branches, dense leaf mats, trash, or extreme sediment deposits. Think of it as one part of an ongoing organic-load plan: prevent what you can, remove what you can, and treat what remains according to the label. Product fit: OWS Fall & Winter BlendUse only when the current temperature range and label directions fit your pond. Check current sizes and application guidance. 3. Inspect aeration and power before cold weather limits access A fall inspection is easier than a repair beside an icy pond. Check the system using its current manual: look for damaged airline, blocked or fouled components, loose fittings, weather exposure, unusual sound or vibration, and signs that the electrical supply needs attention. Confirm that cabinets, intakes, vents, mounts, ropes, and strain-relief points are secure. Do not assume one winter operating plan fits every pond or every aeration system. Pond depth, fish load, climate, diffuser location, and equipment type can change the right approach. If the winter configuration is unclear, review the manual or contact OWS before moving equipment or changing the operating schedule. Photograph the current setup so spring reinstallation is easier. Label cords, airlines, and breakers before snow or ice hides them. Keep spare parts and retrieval ropes where they can be reached in winter. Resolve electrical damage or undersized service with qualified help before installation day. Review OWS winter aeration guidance before changing a system configuration. 4. Walk the dock, pilings, boats, and shoreline hardware Ice risk is usually local. Freeze-thaw cycles, shifting ice, wind, and changing water levels can lift or press against docks, pilings, lifts, cables, and moored boats. Inspect fasteners, anchors, hinges, ladders, bumpers, ropes, and exposed wiring. Remove portable items that do not need to remain outside, and decide which structures truly need water movement around them. This is also the time to map a safe power route and a retrieval method. Waiting until ice has formed makes placement, adjustment, and service more hazardous. If the site has public access, livestock, pets, snowmobiles, skaters, or ice anglers, include a plan for barriers and warning signs anywhere equipment may weaken the ice. Protecting a dock zone? Compare your site with the current Ice Away specifications, then confirm placement and electrical requirements before ordering. Explore Ice Away 5. Choose a freeze strategy for the actual risk A de-icer is not automatically required for every pond, and it should not be selected only because winter is approaching. Start with the problem: protecting a dock or boat, supporting a localized opening, managing a small ornamental pond, or maintaining a broader aeration plan. Those jobs may require different equipment and placement. When the primary risk is ice around a dock, pilings, a moored boat, or another concentrated shoreline structure, a water circulator such as Ice Away may fit the job. The current OWS product page lists a 1/2 HP unit that circulates 500 gallons per minute, with 115V and 230V options, 25-, 50-, and 100-foot cord choices, a typical suspended depth of 5 to 8 feet, and an approximate open-water diameter of eight feet for each foot of propeller depth. Actual open-water area varies with placement and conditions. Those specifications belong in the decision section, not at the top of a general fall-maintenance guide. First help the reader identify the risk; then show when the product is relevant. For installation, depth, electrical supply, optional prop guard, and site-specific positioning, use the current manual and OWS support guidance. Open-water and electrical safety come first Any de-icer or aeration equipment that keeps water open can also create thin, unstable ice beyond the visible opening. Treat the entire surrounding area as unsafe. Keep people, pets, livestock, vehicles, and recreational users away; install visible warnings or barriers appropriate for the property; and follow local rules. Disconnect power before handling, retrieving, or adjusting equipment. Match the circuit and voltage to the selected model and follow the current manufacturer instructions and applicable electrical codes. Never walk onto questionable ice to inspect a unit. If an adjustment cannot be made safely from shore or a stable structure, stop and get qualified help. Your final 15-minute fall walk-through Use this quick check after a major leaf drop, before a forecasted cold snap, and again before sustained freezing conditions become normal for your area. Surface debris removed from the areas where it collects most heavily. Water temperature measured and any biological treatment matched to the current label. Aeration, airlines, mounts, ropes, cabinets, and power visually inspected. Dock hardware, pilings, boat lines, ladders, and anchors checked. Freeze-risk zones identified; unnecessary equipment removed or stored. De-icing equipment, if needed, selected and staged before ice makes access unsafe. Open-water hazards addressed with barriers, warning signs, and a no-ice-access rule. One follow-up date placed on the calendar after the next major weather change. Frequently asked questions Should I remove every leaf from a large pond? That is rarely practical. Focus on concentrated shoreline areas, coves, spillways, intakes, and docks. Preventing and removing the heaviest deposits can materially reduce the load even when the entire pond cannot be skimmed. Can beneficial bacteria replace physical cleanout? No. Bacteria can support the breakdown of organic material when temperature and dosage are appropriate, but branches, dense leaf mats, trash, and severe sediment deposits still require physical management. When should I switch to OWS Fall & Winter Blend? The current OWS product guidance says to begin below 60°F and apply while water remains between 38°F and 60°F. Confirm the current label before treatment because product instructions can change. Does every pond need a de-icer? No. A de-icer is most relevant when a specific structure or localized opening needs protection. Choose it for a defined problem and site, not as a blanket seasonal purchase. Is Ice Away the same as whole-pond aeration? No. Ice Away is presented as a dock-mounted water circulator for localized ice prevention. The current OWS page says an optional mounting float can convert it to a surface aerator, but the winter plan should still be sized for the actual pond and goal. What if ice has already formed? Do not walk onto questionable ice or improvise an installation. Follow the current manual, keep power disconnected while handling equipment, and contact OWS or a qualified installer if the unit cannot be positioned safely from shore or a stable structure. Not sure which winter plan fits your pond? OWS can help you separate whole-pond aeration needs from dock-zone ice protection and match the equipment to your site. Talk With a Pond Expert Product specifications and application directions can change. Confirm the current product page, label, manual, and local requirements before treatment or installation. Open water and surrounding ice must be treated as hazardous.Updated September 2026
Outdoor Water Solutions Support!
Outdoor Water Solutions Support Have a technical question about one of our products? Want to talk to a live person? Outdoor Water Solutions is pleased to offer a dedicated technical support line, the first in our industry! Joshua Flowers has recently joined the Outdoor Water Solutions team as Technical Support Lead . He has a degree from the University of Idaho in Fisheries and Wildlife Resources and has many years of experience working for the U.S. Forest Service and "The Pond Boss", Bob Lusk. In addition to providing technical support on Outdoor Water Solutions products and fielding your pond, lake and aeration questions, Joshua provides timely articles and updates on our website. You can contact Joshua at our Technical Support number, 1-479-879-2961.
Natural Algae Prevention
We recently had a question sent to us from a pond owner who is looking to prevent algae from growing and to combine “all natural” products with aeration. John Redd, Owner of Outdoor Water Solutions offered the following suggestions: Step 1: Keep colorant in your pond year around. It should have a consistent blue/dark blue appearance that is pleasing in color, but more importantly, filters the sunlight and keeps it off of the bottom. The amount of dye is dependent on pond size, pond depth, rainfall and sunlight. On a 1 acre pond that is 4’ deep on average, we would typically recommend 1 quart of concentrate to start. If 8’ -12’ deep, it would probably take 2 quarts to start assuming there is no residual colorant left from last year. Then you would add a ½ quart each month or two to keep the color year around depending on how much rain and/or dilution you might get. You can always add some, give it a day or two, then add more until you get the color you want. You should not be able to see the bottom at 2’-3’ of depth. Algae can grow anytime, even over winter, so having a colorant in your pond all year is critical to preventing algae growth. Step 2: Add supplemental aerobic bacteria every 2 weeks once the water temperature hits 50 degrees. For a one acre pond, you would add 8 packets (4 pounds) every 2 weeks. Toss it in around the edges of the pond and out in the middle. These are water soluble packets that dissolve and increase the # of aerobic bacteria in your pond with the objective of breaking down excess nutrients and organic matter. Step 3: Selectively control algae that appears. Some people use an algaecide. Others use a lake rake and pull it into shore and dispose of it. Keeping it from sinking to the bottom and adding to your existing muck is typically a good idea. Have a question? Contact us today or Call Us 1.866.471.1614!
7 Ways to Control Algae
7 Way to Control Algae It's that time of the year, when winter is holding on ferociously, spring is around the corner, and summer is not far behind. As managers of lakes and ponds its time to reassess our annual algae and vegetation management plans/prescriptions. As a professional we are always asking what, why, when, where, and how did our plan work, or did not work. We must give credit where its due. Algae’s basic function along side the rest of the terrestrial world (trees, plants, etc.), is to produce oxygen for the environment we live in. However, as the temperatures begin rising algae growth can take on a whole new meaning for lake and pond owners. That credit we just gave it, took the preferable “right turn Clyde”. Algae begins growing unchecked and becomes an ugly mess that is ruining the tranquility and beauty of your recreational pond. Professional lake, pond, or water managers are always trying to get one step ahead on algae. No one likes seeing green floating scum on their water. But did you know that there maybe many variables contributing to algae growth? Pond owners should consider the type of fish the pond holds, slope and depth of the pond, livestock that may be around the pond, the water source, and the previous use of pond. These are just some of the considerations to thing ab out when you see algae growing in your pond or lake. When addressing algae problems, start by assessing your what our the current goals are for the pond. Goals and current events will determine what methods are used to treat algae. If there is an event happening in two days, a chemical treatment that results in dead brown mats of algae won’t be received very well by guests. There is no “one size fits” all recommendation or product to control algae. It is the job of the consultant to provide all available options and information after asking and answering questions that will help you to make decisions for your lake or pond. Remember, no two ponds that are alike and a product that is labeled “one size fits all” will more than likely disappoint. So, what options should you consider? We'll take a look at seven algae control options and discuss them weekly. They include: Nutrient Reduction Sunlight Reduction Fish Chemicals Biological Mechanical Aeration Controlling algae is a process. Start with your goals for your pond or lake, discuss the costs, time and resources needed. Remember there is “no one size fits all”. Educate yourself and if needed, worth with a lake or pond professional to discuss your situation. If your lake or pond is looking great, everyone will benefit and enjoy your efforts.
Windmill and Electric Aeration for Pond Algae Control
Windmill Aeration Systems are great systems for where you do not have electricity or where you don’t want to spend money on electricity. You do need to have access to an area where there’s some wind to turn a windmill. Typically, each windmill will need 3-6 mph of wind to turn. For a windmill to be effective, you would need an average of 6-8 hours of wind each day. On some days, there might not be any wind. On others, you might have 24 hours of constant wind. But, if you can average 6-8 hours a day, you can get enough wind to aerate and circulate your pond. Electric Aerators - There are many good electric aerator options out there if you have access to electricity. You can then aerate 24 hours a day or put the aerator on a timer and aerate 12-14 hours if you want. Most electric aerators are one of three types – linear diaphragm, rotary vane or rocking piston in design. Solar is also a viable option but is about 2-3 times more expensive than using electricity or wind for a given CFM output. Another option is to integrate a windmill aeration system and an electric aerator into the same system. Both would share the same airlines and diffusers. A control box as sold by Outdoor Water Solutions could be used to manage the two by turning on the electric aerator when the wind isn’t blowing and shutting it back off when the wind starts. This option allows you to aerate 24 hours a day and to do it as cost effective as possible given you’re using wind energy as often as possible. The existence of algae in you pond may be a fact of life, but it is good to know that there are ways to prevent excessive growth of it and there are ways to control it with some patience and the right tools. Outdoor Water Solutions manufactures a wide range of pond and lake products including all of the products mentioned here for algae control. You can learn more at www.Outdoorwatersolutions.com or by calling 1-866-471-1614 for a free catalog.
Surface Aeration For Pond Algae Control
Surface Aeration All ponds and lakes will benefit from aeration. Pond aeration is just like adding air to an aquarium. With air, the aquarium stays fairly clean. Shut off the air and it starts to turn green. Adding oxygen to a pond helps aerobic bacteria thrive. They are the lifeblood of a healthy pond as aerobic bacteria are much more effective than anaerobic bacteria at breaking down organic matter and excess nutrients. Bottom diffused aeration brings water from the bottom of the pond to the surface where it comes in contact with sunlight and wind, which add viable oxygen. This water then goes back down to the bottom where the aerobic bacteria can start to eat the black organic matter and muck on the bottom. Surface aerators – effective on ponds with higher fish stocking rates. They can add supplemental oxygen needed to keep fish alive in the warmer summer months. They’re not as effective as bottom diffused aeration in circulating the water from top to bottom and eliminating stratification unless the pond is fairly shallow (< 8 feet). Fountains – they look great but are not really designed for aeration. They can help, especially in shallow ponds but do not add as much oxygen as a surface aerator or bottom diffused aerator. The existence of algae in you pond may be a fact of life, but it is good to know that there are ways to prevent excessive growth of it and there are ways to control it with some patience and the right tools. Outdoor Water Solutions manufactures a wide range of pond and lake products for algae control. You can learn more at www.Outdoorwatersolutions.com or by calling 1-866-471-1614 for a free catalog.