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Pond Turnover or Low Water? How to Protect Fish After Heat, Cold Rain, or Drought

John Redd

Quick SUMMARY Weeks of hot, absent weather can leave a pond layered, and warmer oxygenated water sits near the surface and the cooler low oxygen water lies below. A sudden cold rain or strong wind storm can mix those layers and pull dissolved oxygen down throughout the pond. A shrinking pond creates a second risk: the same fish, nutrients, and waste are crowded into a smaller volume of water, and that will heat more quickly. Prepare with correctly sized, consistently operated aeration and early-morning monitoring. If fish are gasping now, treat it as an oxygen emergency: create safe surface agitation immediately, stop feeding and nonessential treatments, and contact a fisheries professional. A cool rain after a punishing stretch of heat may feel like relief. But for a pond, it can be the moment it changes for the worst. The rain itself is not automatically harmful, and not every storm causes a bad turnover. The danger is highest when a pond has already stratified and the lower layer has lost much of its oxygen. Drought creates a different-looking problem with a similar endpoint. As the waterline falls, water warms up more easily, fish become crowded, and oxygen demand rises. The right response begins with identifying which problem is in front of you. And then you can act in the correct order. If fish are gasping at the surface right now Do not wait for a routine pond treatment or a shipped product. Equip your pond with any surface aeration method that splashes water into the air to oxygenate, stop/slow fish feeding, and call a local state fisheries agency, or an OWS pond professional for specific help on what to buy. Contact Here Do not enter the water, you cannot just assume the low oxygen is the only possible cause. There could've been the following other contaminations occurred: a chemical spill, manure runoff, pesticide exposure, etc. In this guide Turnover, low water, or something else? Prepare before the next weather change How heat and cold rain can cause turnover What to do during an oxygen emergency What to do when a pond is drying up How to protect or relocate fish Frequently asked questions First, identify the pattern you are seeing Turnover, drought, pond leak, algae die-off, or contamination can all share similar warning signs often confused. Use the observation table below as clues and not a final diagnosis. What you observe What it may mean First priority Fish gulping at the surface around sunrise or crowding near an inflow or aerator Likely low dissolved oxygen Begin safe emergency surface aeration and get expert help Water suddenly turns brown, gray, black, or unusually murky after a cold front, hard rain, or sustained wind Possible turnover or algae die-off Check fish at once; test dissolved oxygen at dawn. If equipment is not available then call a pond expert. Contact Here Waterline falls during extended heat and little rainfall; nearby ponds show a similar pattern Drought, evaporation, and reduced runoff are likely contributors Protect oxygen, reduce fish stress, and track the rate of loss Persistent wet area below the dam, flow near a pipe, animal burrows, or a level that drops rapidly after each refill A leak or structural problem may be involved Document the pattern and inspect the dam, spillway, and penetrations before choosing a repair Fish die over several days, only one species is affected, lesions are visible, or wildlife is also sick or dead Disease, water chemistry, or contamination may be involved Contact a fisheries or environmental professional and restrict pond-water use until the cause is assessed Prepare before the next cold front: make aeration part of the plan The best time to reduce turnover risk is before fish are in distress. Properly sized aeration can keep water moving and limit the formation of a large oxygen-poor bottom layer. The word properly matters! The pond area, depth, shape, organic load, fish load, climate, diffuser placement, power source, and operating schedule all affect performance. Call or contact us here for any help. Preventive circulation and emergency oxygenation are related, but they are not the same job: Goal Typical approach Important limit Prevent stratification and routine oxygen problems A correctly sized diffused-air or circulation system operated consistently before and through high-risk weather A system cannot protect water it does not circulate; placement and runtime must match the pond Create an oxygen refuge during an active crisis Surface agitation that throws, sprays, or splashes water into contact with air It may save some fish but may not restore the whole pond immediately Important startup cautionIf a deep pond has been hot and calm for weeks and has not been aerated, do not assume that placing a new diffuser on the bottom and running it at full output is the safest emergency response. Rapidly mixing a strongly stratified pond can distribute oxygen-poor bottom water. Ask OWS or a fisheries professional for a pond-specific startup plan. If fish are already gasping, prioritize safe surface oxygenation while you get guidance. A practical preparation checklist Watch the weather sequence, not only the temperature. Prolonged heat and calm followed by cold rain or strong wind deserves closer monitoring. Inspect the entire aeration system. Check power, air intake, filters, airline, diffusers, floats, mooring, and visible circulation before a storm arrives. Plan for the hours of greatest risk. Dissolved oxygen is commonly lowest near sunrise. Wind-powered equipment may produce less air during hot, still weather, and a daytime-only solar system may not cover the pre-dawn window without stored power. Check the pond early in the morning. Look for fish at the surface, unusual color, new odor, or fish collecting near inflows and moving water. Reduce avoidable oxygen demand. Do not overfeed or overstock fish. Keep manure, fertilizer, grass clippings, and other organic material out of runoff. Have an emergency method ready. Know which surface aerator, pump-and-splash setup, safe power supply, and phone numbers you would use before fish begin gasping. Need an aeration plan for your pond? Compare OWS wind, solar, electric, diffused-air, and surface-aeration options, then confirm sizing and startup guidance for your pond’s depth, shape, fish load, and power access. Compare Pond Aeration Ask a Pond Expert How heat followed by cold rain can cause pond turnover During hot, calm weather, the sun warms the pond’s surface. That warmer water is less dense and can remain above the cooler bottom water. The surface layer receives oxygen from the atmosphere and photosynthesis. The lower layer is cut off from those sources while fish, microorganisms, and decomposing organic matter continue using oxygen. Over time, the pond can develop two very different layers: usable oxygen near the top and little oxygen near the bottom. A heavy cold rain cools and adds weight to the surface water. Sustained wind can add mixing energy. If the layers mix quickly, the limited oxygen from the upper layer is spread through a much larger volume of oxygen-demanding water. Dissolved oxygen can then fall throughout the pond. That is why the storm is often the trigger, not the whole cause. The vulnerability was built during the hot, calm period beforehand. Rain volume and temperature, wind, pond depth, algae density, organic matter, and the strength of stratification all affect the result. Warning signs to take seriously Fish gulping or “piping” at the surface, especially around sunrise Fish crowding near an inflow, fountain, aerator, or other moving water A sudden change from green water to brown, gray, black, or unusually murky water A new swampy or rotten-egg odor after a mixing event Large fish becoming distressed or dying before smaller fish A dissolved-oxygen meter or fresh field test kit is more reliable than appearance alone. Test near sunrise, when oxygen is normally lowest. Fish species and life stages differ, so there is no single safe cutoff for every pond; as a general reference, prolonged dissolved oxygen below about 3 mg/L is stressful, and brief exposure below about 1 mg/L is often lethal. What to do if a turnover or oxygen crash may be happening Create surface agitation immediately - without putting yourself in danger. Use equipment designed to splash, spray, or circulate water at the surface and return oxygenated water to the pond. The immediate objective is a refuge where fish can gather, not a promise that the entire pond will recover at once. Stop feeding. Stressed fish may not eat, and uneaten feed adds waste and oxygen demand. Resume gradually only after fish behavior and water quality return to normal. Pause nonessential pond treatments. Do not apply an herbicide or algaecide during a low-oxygen event; rapidly dying vegetation can make oxygen demand worse. Delay bacteria, fertilizer, and other nonemergency additions until conditions are stable and the label or a qualified professional supports their use. Look for evidence that this is more than low oxygen. Note recent pesticide, fertilizer, manure, fuel, or chemical exposure. If livestock, pets, amphibians, birds, or other wildlife are affected, restrict access and contact the appropriate environmental or animal-health authority. Document the event. Record the time, weather, water color, odor, fish species and sizes affected, water temperature, dissolved oxygen if available, and photos. This information helps a fisheries professional distinguish oxygen depletion from disease or contamination. Get local help. Contact your county or state Extension office, state fisheries agency, or a qualified pond manager. After a significant kill, the surviving fish population may need assessment before restocking or harvest decisions are made. Where a surface aerator fits University Extension guidance distinguishes emergency surface oxygenation from long-term de-stratification. A product such as the OWS Aquarian Pro is designed to create surface agitation and oxygen transfer, but horsepower, voltage, minimum depth, coverage, placement, and safe electrical access still have to fit the site. Review the Aquarian Pro surface aerator What to do when your pond is drying up Low water is not only a shoreline problem. Less water means less total oxygen. The remaining water can heat faster, fish are confined to less space, and ammonia, carbon dioxide, nutrients, and organic waste become more concentrated. Less water also means you need to turn off and pull out any fountains to protect them from running past their minimum depth. If you discover an issue with your equipment, we offer a variety of replacement parts and maintenance kits. For windmill parts, see here. For general maintenance kits, see here. Options 1/4 HP Maintenance Kit 1/2 HP Maintenance Kit 3/4 HP Maintenance Kit 1 HP Maintenance Kit Thomas Gast Matala 1. Track the water loss before naming the cause Place a marked stake or use a fixed dock or spillway reference and record the waterline at the same time each day. Log rainfall, inflow, irrigation withdrawals, and unusual weather. Compare the trend with nearby ponds when possible. Walk the dam and shoreline safely. Look for saturated soil or flowing water below the dam, erosion, animal burrows, sinkholes, cracked soil, damaged pipes, and leakage around outlet structures. A pond that repeatedly falls to the same elevation and then stabilizes may have a leak near that level, but this is a clue, not proof. 2. Protect water quality and fish first Increase appropriate aeration and pay special attention from overnight through early morning. Stop or sharply reduce supplemental feeding when fish stop eating, water is extremely hot, or oxygen is low. Do not apply aquatic herbicides during severe drought or an oxygen crisis. Keep livestock from wading in the remaining pool, where they can add manure, increase turbidity, and further stress fish. Observe the pond daily and check fish at dawn. Conditions can change faster as volume declines. If the pond is clearly headed toward an unsustainable level, ask a fisheries professional about lawful harvest or population reduction before fish become too stressed to handle. 3. Be careful with replacement water Adding water is not a universal fix. A source may be too limited, too warm, low in oxygen, contaminated, chemically different, or restricted by local water rules. Municipal water may contain chlorine or chloramine. If a suitable and legal source is available, get local guidance on volume, chemistry, temperature, and how to introduce it with oxygenation rather than creating another abrupt change. 4. Treat a confirmed leak as a separate project A pond sealer does not replace emergency aeration, and it cannot correct drought or an undersized watershed. First separate ordinary seasonal loss from active seepage or structural failure. If the evidence supports an active leak in an earthen pond, OWS Soilfloc may be a repair path. The current product guidance says it is applied through the water, works best while a pond is full and actively leaking, and is not designed for synthetic liners or concrete. Confirm compatibility, coverage, application conditions, and current directions before ordering. Product fit: Soilfloc is for a leak, not a droughtDiagnose the water-loss pattern first. If active seepage in an earthen pond is the likely cause, review current Soilfloc guidance and coverage or talk with OWS before treatment. Can you move fish to save them? Sometimes yes, but relocation should not be the first do-it-yourself response. Fish already stressed by heat or low oxygen may not survive capture and transport. Moving fish can also spread disease, parasites, or invasive species, and transferring game fish or releasing fish into public water may require authorization or be prohibited. Contact your state fish and wildlife agency, local Extension office, or a fisheries biologist before moving fish between water bodies. Depending on pond ownership, species, local rules, fish condition, and the suitability of the receiving water, the better plan may be lawful harvest, professional relocation, temporary holding for ornamental fish, or accepting a limited loss and rebuilding the population after water returns. Never dump pond fish into a creek, river, lake, drainage ditch, or someone else’s pond. If a professional recommends temporary holding for ornamental fish, the holding system needs adequate volume, continuous aeration, water-quality control, shade, secure containment, and careful temperature acclimation. A livestock tank full of hot, unaerated water is not a rescue system. What not to do when fish are stressed Do not assume every post-storm fish problem is a turnover; contamination and disease require different action. Do not kill a large algae or plant mass during a low-oxygen event. Do not keep feeding fish that have stopped eating. Do not start a new bottom-diffused system at full output in a strongly stratified pond without a startup plan. Do not assume all falling water is a leak or that a sealer can fix drought. Do not move fish to another water body without professional and legal guidance. Do not enter the pond or use unsafe extension cords, pumps, or electrical connections during an emergency. Frequently asked questions Does every sudden cold rain cause a pond turnover? No. The risk depends on whether the pond is stratified, how oxygen-poor the bottom layer has become, and how much mixing the rain and wind create. A cold storm after weeks of hot, calm weather is a reason to inspect the pond but it's not proof that a turnover has occurred. Why are fish gasping early in the morning? Plants and algae produce oxygen in daylight but use oxygen at night along with fish and microorganisms. Oxygen is therefore often lowest around sunrise. Surface gasping at that time is an emergency warning sign. Should I turn on my bottom aerator during a turnover? If a properly sized system is already operating under its established plan, follow its manufacturer guidance. If the pond has not been aerated and may be strongly stratified, do not automatically start a new bottom diffuser at full output. Rapid mixing may distribute oxygen-poor water. Use safe surface oxygenation for an active emergency and get pond-specific startup advice. Can aeration guarantee that I will not lose fish? No. Proper aeration can substantially reduce risk and may create a refuge during low oxygen, but performance depends on sizing, placement, runtime, power reliability, pond conditions, and the cause of the fish stress. Should I feed fish when the pond is very low? Do not continue a normal feeding routine when water is extremely hot, fish are not eating, or oxygen is low. Uneaten feed degrades water quality. Resume carefully only after conditions stabilize. How do I know whether low water is drought or a leak? Track the level against rainfall and nearby ponds, then inspect the dam, pipe penetrations, shoreline, and area below the dam. Persistent wet spots, flowing water, burrows, rapid loss after refilling, or a repeated stopping elevation can point toward leakage, but a qualified inspection is the best way to confirm the cause. Can I move my fish into a neighbor’s pond? Do not move them without permission and guidance from the appropriate fisheries authority. Fish may be too stressed to survive transport, the receiving pond may not be suitable, and legal, disease, or invasive-species restrictions may apply. Build the plan before the weather changes again OWS can help separate routine circulation, emergency surface aeration, and confirmed leak repair and match the next step of your pond rather than forcing one product into every problem. Talk With a Pond Expert Continue to the Fall Checklist Technical sources This guide was reviewed against university Extension and fisheries-agency guidance. Site conditions and regulations vary, so local professional advice should take priority during an active fish kill, suspected contamination, or fish-relocation decision. Mississippi State University Extension: Fish Kills Oklahoma State University Extension: Fish Kills University of Missouri Extension: Managing Fish Ponds During an Extended Drought Kentucky State University: Aeration and Water De-stratification in Recreational Ponds Mississippi State University Extension: Feeding Fish Idaho Fish and Game: Drought, Heat, and Fish-Management Decisions This article provides general pond-management information, not an emergency-response guarantee. Product specifications and guidance can change. Confirm current product pages, manuals, labels, electrical requirements, and local laws before installing equipment, treating water, harvesting fish, or moving aquatic life.

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Fall Pond Transition Checklist: Leaves, Sludge & Ice

Quick answer Before sustained freezing weather arrives, remove as much fresh debris as practical, check water temperature before choosing a biological treatment, inspect aeration and electrical equipment, and decide whether a dock or other structure needs a localized open-water plan. The goal is not to keep an entire pond ice-free. It is to reduce the organic load, prevent equipment surprises, and protect the areas where ice creates the most risk. Fall pond care is less about buying one winter product and more about reducing three risks before cold weather: new organic load, equipment surprises, and ice around structures. Start before peak leaf fall, then finish freeze preparation before your local forecast shows sustained overnight freezing. In this guide Why fall problems arrive together The five-step checklist When Ice Away fits Safety Final walk-through FAQ Why fall pond problems tend to arrive together Fall changes several parts of a pond at once. Leaves, grass clippings, and dying shoreline plants add new organic material. Water temperatures fall, biological activity changes, and access to docks and equipment becomes harder. Then an early freeze can create ice around pilings, boats, cables, and other shoreline structures before winter preparation is finished. That chain matters because decomposing organic material uses dissolved oxygen. Later, persistent ice and snow can reduce light and slow the normal exchange between water and air. Shallow, nutrient-rich ponds with heavy vegetation or organic buildup are generally more vulnerable to winter oxygen problems than deeper, cleaner ponds. A fall plan should therefore address debris, muck, equipment, and ice risk as connected issues instead of treating them as four unrelated jobs. What do you see right now? Observation Likely risk First response Possible OWS path Fresh leaves collecting New organic load Skim, rake, net, and repeat during peak leaf fall Leaf-removal tools; physical cleanout Soft bottom muck or odor Accumulated organic material Measure area and water temperature; combine removal and label-directed treatment Fall & Winter Blend when conditions fit Damaged airline or unreliable power Loss of circulation when access is difficult Inspect and repair before freeze-up Aeration parts or expert sizing help Dock, pilings, boat, or lift exposed to ice Localized structural and access risk Inspect hardware and plan localized water movement Ice Away when site and conditions fit 1. Remove fresh leaves and debris before they sink The easiest leaf to manage is the one that never reaches the bottom. Skim or rake floating material from accessible shoreline and dock areas, remove windrows of leaves after storms, and trim dead marginal vegetation where it can be reached safely. For small ponds, a seasonal leaf net can reduce the amount of material entering the water. For farm ponds and larger lakes, concentrate on coves, shorelines, drains, and dock zones where debris collects. Do not expect one cleanout to last all fall. A few short passes during peak leaf drop are usually more practical than waiting until the material is waterlogged and settled. Physical removal also keeps a biological treatment from being asked to handle a volume of debris that should have been removed mechanically. Clear leaves from the water surface, dock edges, spillways, and equipment intakes. Remove loose plant material without disturbing stable shoreline vegetation unnecessarily. Keep grass clippings, manure, fertilizer, and eroding soil from washing into the pond. If bottom muck is already deep, document where it is concentrated before choosing a treatment plan. Read: Should I Keep Leaves Out of My Pond? 2. Match sludge treatment to the water temperature Beneficial bacteria can support the breakdown of organic material, but the formula, water temperature, dose, and application interval matter. Standard warm-water products may slow down as the pond cools. Use the current product label or product detail page rather than carrying a summer routine into fall by habit. For OWS Fall & Winter Blend, the current product guidance lists a 38°F to 60°F water-temperature range and an application every two weeks. The published use rate is two packets per quarter acre, four per half acre, six per three-quarter acre, eight per acre, or sixteen per two acres. The initial application may be doubled for heavy organic buildup. Always confirm the current label and the size of the area being treated before application. Biological treatment is not a substitute for removing branches, dense leaf mats, trash, or extreme sediment deposits. Think of it as one part of an ongoing organic-load plan: prevent what you can, remove what you can, and treat what remains according to the label. Product fit: OWS Fall & Winter BlendUse only when the current temperature range and label directions fit your pond. Check current sizes and application guidance. 3. Inspect aeration and power before cold weather limits access A fall inspection is easier than a repair beside an icy pond. Check the system using its current manual: look for damaged airline, blocked or fouled components, loose fittings, weather exposure, unusual sound or vibration, and signs that the electrical supply needs attention. Confirm that cabinets, intakes, vents, mounts, ropes, and strain-relief points are secure. Do not assume one winter operating plan fits every pond or every aeration system. Pond depth, fish load, climate, diffuser location, and equipment type can change the right approach. If the winter configuration is unclear, review the manual or contact OWS before moving equipment or changing the operating schedule. Photograph the current setup so spring reinstallation is easier. Label cords, airlines, and breakers before snow or ice hides them. Keep spare parts and retrieval ropes where they can be reached in winter. Resolve electrical damage or undersized service with qualified help before installation day. Review OWS winter aeration guidance before changing a system configuration. 4. Walk the dock, pilings, boats, and shoreline hardware Ice risk is usually local. Freeze-thaw cycles, shifting ice, wind, and changing water levels can lift or press against docks, pilings, lifts, cables, and moored boats. Inspect fasteners, anchors, hinges, ladders, bumpers, ropes, and exposed wiring. Remove portable items that do not need to remain outside, and decide which structures truly need water movement around them. This is also the time to map a safe power route and a retrieval method. Waiting until ice has formed makes placement, adjustment, and service more hazardous. If the site has public access, livestock, pets, snowmobiles, skaters, or ice anglers, include a plan for barriers and warning signs anywhere equipment may weaken the ice. Protecting a dock zone? Compare your site with the current Ice Away specifications, then confirm placement and electrical requirements before ordering. Explore Ice Away 5. Choose a freeze strategy for the actual risk A de-icer is not automatically required for every pond, and it should not be selected only because winter is approaching. Start with the problem: protecting a dock or boat, supporting a localized opening, managing a small ornamental pond, or maintaining a broader aeration plan. Those jobs may require different equipment and placement. When the primary risk is ice around a dock, pilings, a moored boat, or another concentrated shoreline structure, a water circulator such as Ice Away may fit the job. The current OWS product page lists a 1/2 HP unit that circulates 500 gallons per minute, with 115V and 230V options, 25-, 50-, and 100-foot cord choices, a typical suspended depth of 5 to 8 feet, and an approximate open-water diameter of eight feet for each foot of propeller depth. Actual open-water area varies with placement and conditions. Those specifications belong in the decision section, not at the top of a general fall-maintenance guide. First help the reader identify the risk; then show when the product is relevant. For installation, depth, electrical supply, optional prop guard, and site-specific positioning, use the current manual and OWS support guidance. Open-water and electrical safety come first Any de-icer or aeration equipment that keeps water open can also create thin, unstable ice beyond the visible opening. Treat the entire surrounding area as unsafe. Keep people, pets, livestock, vehicles, and recreational users away; install visible warnings or barriers appropriate for the property; and follow local rules. Disconnect power before handling, retrieving, or adjusting equipment. Match the circuit and voltage to the selected model and follow the current manufacturer instructions and applicable electrical codes. Never walk onto questionable ice to inspect a unit. If an adjustment cannot be made safely from shore or a stable structure, stop and get qualified help. Your final 15-minute fall walk-through Use this quick check after a major leaf drop, before a forecasted cold snap, and again before sustained freezing conditions become normal for your area. Surface debris removed from the areas where it collects most heavily. Water temperature measured and any biological treatment matched to the current label. Aeration, airlines, mounts, ropes, cabinets, and power visually inspected. Dock hardware, pilings, boat lines, ladders, and anchors checked. Freeze-risk zones identified; unnecessary equipment removed or stored. De-icing equipment, if needed, selected and staged before ice makes access unsafe. Open-water hazards addressed with barriers, warning signs, and a no-ice-access rule. One follow-up date placed on the calendar after the next major weather change. Frequently asked questions Should I remove every leaf from a large pond? That is rarely practical. Focus on concentrated shoreline areas, coves, spillways, intakes, and docks. Preventing and removing the heaviest deposits can materially reduce the load even when the entire pond cannot be skimmed. Can beneficial bacteria replace physical cleanout? No. Bacteria can support the breakdown of organic material when temperature and dosage are appropriate, but branches, dense leaf mats, trash, and severe sediment deposits still require physical management. When should I switch to OWS Fall & Winter Blend? The current OWS product guidance says to begin below 60°F and apply while water remains between 38°F and 60°F. Confirm the current label before treatment because product instructions can change. Does every pond need a de-icer? No. A de-icer is most relevant when a specific structure or localized opening needs protection. Choose it for a defined problem and site, not as a blanket seasonal purchase. Is Ice Away the same as whole-pond aeration? No. Ice Away is presented as a dock-mounted water circulator for localized ice prevention. The current OWS page says an optional mounting float can convert it to a surface aerator, but the winter plan should still be sized for the actual pond and goal. What if ice has already formed? Do not walk onto questionable ice or improvise an installation. Follow the current manual, keep power disconnected while handling equipment, and contact OWS or a qualified installer if the unit cannot be positioned safely from shore or a stable structure. Not sure which winter plan fits your pond? OWS can help you separate whole-pond aeration needs from dock-zone ice protection and match the equipment to your site. Talk With a Pond Expert Product specifications and application directions can change. Confirm the current product page, label, manual, and local requirements before treatment or installation. Open water and surrounding ice must be treated as hazardous.Updated September 2026

Windmill and Electric Aeration for Pond Algae Control

Windmill Aeration Systems are great systems for where you do not have electricity or where you don’t want to spend money on electricity. You do need to have access to an area where there’s some wind to turn a windmill. Typically, each windmill will need 3-6 mph of wind to turn. For a windmill to be effective, you would need an average of 6-8 hours of wind each day. On some days, there might not be any wind. On others, you might have 24 hours of constant wind. But, if you can average 6-8 hours a day, you can get enough wind to aerate and circulate your pond. Electric Aerators - There are many good electric aerator options out there if you have access to electricity. You can then aerate 24 hours a day or put the aerator on a timer and aerate 12-14 hours if you want. Most electric aerators are one of three types – linear diaphragm, rotary vane or rocking piston in design. Solar is also a viable option but is about 2-3 times more expensive than using electricity or wind for a given CFM output. Another option is to integrate a windmill aeration system and an electric aerator into the same system. Both would share the same airlines and diffusers. A control box as sold by Outdoor Water Solutions could be used to manage the two by turning on the electric aerator when the wind isn’t blowing and shutting it back off when the wind starts. This option allows you to aerate 24 hours a day and to do it as cost effective as possible given you’re using wind energy as often as possible. The existence of algae in you pond may be a fact of life, but it is good to know that there are ways to prevent excessive growth of it and there are ways to control it with some patience and the right tools. Outdoor Water Solutions manufactures a wide range of pond and lake products including all of the products mentioned here for algae control. You can learn more at www.Outdoorwatersolutions.com or by calling 1-866-471-1614 for a free catalog.